GUEST ARTICLE: Pokhara was a last minute change in our itinerary to Nepal. Initially we were supposed to spend 5 days in Kathmandu but decided to cut it short and spend our last 2 days there instead. We had heard many good things about the place and knew we had to check it out. We are so glad we did!

After landing in Pokhara’s little airport we made our way to our hotel Temple Tree Resort & Spa which was located in the Baidam lakeside district. It only took us a few minutes to get there. We a noticed a huge difference from the crazy polluted atmosphere of Kathmandu. It was like a gentle calm had settled on the place and most importantly the air was breathable … ahhh!

Our hotel was lovely and on a clear day we could see the Himalayas far off in the distance. After dropping off our bags we had some lunch and headed off on our first looksee of the place.

The streets were full of little shops selling all kinds of local crafts and clothing allong with a plethora of fabric shops sporting the best baby Yak knits. There were also a heap of nice little cafes and restaurants serving all kinds of different cuisines.

The heat was intense (and it was only April) so the walkabout was slow going. There were so many interesting trinkets to buy but when you thought you’d seen it all you turned a corner and there lay another street full of the same items. It seemed never ending!

Pokhara was definitely a place to unwind which was easy with the laid back nature of the locals and the peaceful atmosphere. This was exactly what we needed after our previous whirlwind visit to hot, dirty and dusty Kathmandu.

For dinner that night we found a fantastic outdoor restaurant beside Phewa Lake. They put on a nice little cultural show and served up a feast of mouthwatering curries. With warm candlelight illuminating our surroundings we watched the sun set over the mountains. Unfortunately the air was pretty hazy when we were there so we never did get a really clear look at the legendary giants surrounding us.

The next day we awoke to a spectacular morning. After breakfast we hired a man and his little boat to take us across Phewa Lake to a designated spot where we could trek up to a popular tourist spot – The Peace Pagoda. The ride across was beautiful as we carved our way through water so still it looked like glass. Unfortunately the water didn’t look very sanitary and quickly answered our thoughts as to why we didn’t see any swimmers.

Along the way we passed an interesting little island in the middle of the lake where they had built a holy structure called – Barahi Island Temple. It was quite a picturesque site amidst the tranquil waters and the backdrop of the mountains.

After getting our feet back on dry land we began our long trek up the mountainside to the Peace Pagoda. It wasn’t the easiest walk but thankfully there was a man about halfway up who had set up shop selling drinks and offering seats. It was a perfect spot for a much needed breather. About an hour later we reached our destination.

The Peace Pagoda stood brilliant and proud atop the mountain gleaming in brilliant white with gold trim. The Pagoda was built by the Buddhist Monks and is one of many that have been erected over the years to help promote peace among all peoples.

From there we got an incredible panoramic view of the Annapurna range and Pokhara city. It was breathtaking and we could only imagine how incredible it must be on a very clear day when you could see the Himalayas in the distance. They were just barely visible on that day but we were happy to have seen at least that much.

We had heard of another tourist site called Devi’s Fall which was located down the other side of the hill near a Tibetan settlement called Tashi Ling. We didn’t really know where we were going but managed to find our way down the hillside, passing quaint little farms and tiered pastures along the way. By the time we finally made it down we were pretty worn out and dusty as hell.

Luckily once we were in the city we didn’t have to walk too far before we found the Devi’s Fall. After paying a small entrance fee we went in to see the big attraction… unfortunately there was no really big attraction but rather a small trickle of water down a narrow gully. It was gated off so you couldn’t even get a good look at it. We just came at the wrong time of year I guess. Ah well, the hike was nice at least.

Later that afternoon we had one more sightsee on our agenda and that was to go see the Paragliders in the hills of Sarangkot. We had heard that this was a really popular destination for those crazy thrill seekers and we were eager to see it up close and who knows maybe take the leap? So we rented a few motorbikes and off we went on a little adventure.

Hiring a motorbike was a great way to get a better look at Pokhara as well. We got lost on the way but it was okay because we got to see some pretty spectacular scenery. Once we found our way we began a steep ascent up a mountain to the little village of Sarangkot.

It was slow going as we wound our way up and it didn’t help having bikes lacking in the horsepower department (especially those with two on board!). Other than that, the first part of the way was pretty easy because the roads were paved but then we hit some really bumpy dirt roads that kicked up thick dust as fine as baby powder.

By the time we reached our destination we were covered in dust but each of us sporting permagrins – how fun! Oh and a word of advice – about three quarters of the way up we started to see a number of entrepeneurial guys along the side of the road trying to get us to park and pay. Luckily we paid no attention and kept going or we would have found a monstrous walk ahead of us. There was a little fee we had to pay on the way up (I’m still not 100% sure that was legit). Once at the Paragliders launch pad we were able to just park on the side of the road (for free).

Since it was so late in the day we were lucky to get to see a few people take the leap (no way Jose!) The sky was alight in a medley of brilliant colors as an army of Paragliders sailed through the sky over the beautiful Pokhara Valley. It was brilliant and so worth the ride going up to witness this thrilling event.

We ended our stay with one more lovely dinner alongside the lake. Afterwards we got what I thought was the best massage I’ve ever had. Much needed after such a big day of hiking and biking.

We absolutely loved our stay in Pokhara. Although it was short and sweet we were glad we cut our time short in Kathmandu in order to see it. Pokhara is also well known for hikers wanting to go to the Annapurna Base Camp. We saw pictures of the trek there and the views look absolutely stunning. Maybe next time.

Machalle Gower’s Pokhara, Nepal Photo Gallery

This travel diary has been written by Rob Gower, a traveler who works part-time for a bus hire company and enjoys traveling along roads less traveled!

If you’ve travelled somewhere off the beaten track, can write well and have good quality photos I encourage you to contact me and I’ll consider publishing your travel diary here including generous attribution and links back to your website as thanks for your contribution

GUEST ARTICLE: My throat burns after inhaling a dense combination of dust, smoke, exhaust and a very small amount of oxygen. My ears are ringing from the constant sound of car and bus horns. I step warily, dodging the spit as men clear their throats and hurl phlegm and snot projectiles across my path. My eyes are dry and sore. Welcome to Kathmandu.

Upon arrival at Kathmandu International Airport we paid our US$25 per person fee for Visa on arrival. Some people had already obtained their visa back in Australia but that wasn’t necessary. The lineup was excruciatingly long and took quite a while to get through. It wouldn’t have helped if we had pre-arranged a visa (in fact it would have cost more).

Outside the airport it was blistering hot and busy. Hundreds of drivers with signs and porters were shouting at each other and their potential customers. Our driver was there on time and swiftly loaded our luggage into his tiny little blue vintage car. Before we knew it we were on our way to our hotel – Hotel Courtyard located in the popular tourist area called Thamel.

The drive through the city really gave us a taste of the overwhelming poverty of this very densely populated city. There were mangy dogs, cows, chickens and monkeys walking and lying around everywhere. An ever-present dust cloud hung thickly throughout the air giving our surroundings a hazy appearance.

The road became narrower as we entered the main shopping and tourist zone. At times it was so narrow that it was unclear whether we would actually make it through or not. The road was shared with strolling pedestrians, locals on pushbikes, motorbikes, rickshaws and schoolchildren. But this didn’t stop our driver and others from zipping through the streets like our asses were on fire. That drive was definitely cringe worthy.

After about half an hour of weaving through a rather confusing network of small streets we arrived at the Hotel Courtyard. It was a beautiful old converted mansion that provided an ideal sanctuary away from the maddening crowds and noise. Faint sounds of car horns and shouting locals could still be heard every now again but nothing too major.

The owner Michelle, an American lady who married into a local family was warm and accommodating. She explained that the people who generally come to Kathmandu are the more adventurous and interesting types. And she couldn’t have been more right!

As we sat around the courtyard waiting for our documents to be processed we met a New Zealander who was about to make his second attempt to summit Mt Everest and an Australian girl Allie Pepper who was the 9th Australian woman to summit the World’s Highest Mountain. We had never met anyone who had actually made it to the top of Mount Everest. We tried not to ask too many questions but found it too hard to resist. We wanted to know everything and thankfully Allie was happy to share her experiences.

For lunch Michelle gave us a small map of the area and pointed us in the direction of a nice little Italian restaurant. We felt like newborns taking our first tentative steps into those chaotic streets. Our senses were bombarded by our new surroundings. A never-ending collage of colorful vendors thickly lined the streets along with little cafes and a plethora of little hotels.

Walking down the narrow streets was nail biting at times but it all seemed to have a rhythm so once we got that down packed it wasn’t too much of a problem. Although this would be the last place I’d want to take a stroll with any kids. Lunch was great and cheap as chips but most importantly sanitary. I got the feeling one had to be really careful with their food choices there or you might find yourself becoming great mates with the porcelain god.

After lunch we went to a recommended tourist site called Durbar Square. It was a bit of a walk to get there but we saw some pretty interesting things along the way. On our ride in I remember commenting on how grungy everyone looked. Now, after being immersed amongst everything we found ourselves also getting the ‘worn look.’ It was hard to avoid when the dirt roads we were walking on constantly kicked up dust. I remember having this funny image of the character Pigpen from Peanut Gang cartoon in my head – yup that was us.

Like I said before, breathing wasn’t the easiest and our eyes were irritated beyond red. We found sunglasses helped somewhat and we eventually ended up buying some facemasks to help combat the wheeze. Not so nice in such hot temperatures but they definitely helped.

Kathmandu is hard living and we could see people trying to eke out a living any way they could, even if that meant cooking old corn cobs on a poorly lit fire on a dirty curb. Faces were really worn and clothes dirty, if I had thought I’d seen poor, this place had just done a king hit on that previous assumption of mine. There really are no words for how impoverished the situation is there, it certainly had an effect on me and will forever be ingrained in my memory.

In Durbar Square beautiful old red heritage buildings dotted the small area. A mixture of tourists and locals strolled throughout and a handful of vendors had set up shop wherever they could. We saw men wearing traditional Nepali topi hats and women draped in colorful saris. We also saw a few Holy Men dressed in brilliant yellow garb with elaborately decorated faces. They on the other hand seemed to be busking themselves to the public.

Later that day we went for a little shop and found many wonderful things. What mainly caught my eye were the beautiful jewelry pieces and especially the soft knitted pieces made from the baby yak wool. We found the people to be really friendly and always replied with a friendly ‘Namaste.’ Someone told us it means ‘Hello to the god within you.’

The next day we had Michelle organize a small trek for us in the hills located just an hour and a half outside of the city. We really liked the drive it took us through some beautiful countryside. We wound around tiered hills and passed local buses overflowing with passengers.

When we arrived at our destination we were greeted by a young guy from the nearby village, his name was Kalum. He was going to be our guide for the day. After making sure we had all our necessities for the journey (most importantly lots of water and a good pair of shoes) we were on our way.

Kalum’s English was excellent and he gave us a great insight into our surroundings. We happily breathed in the clean country air as we trekked through a beautiful tranquil landscape peppered with quaint rustic looking cottages. The locals there were shy but friendly. Kalum said they didn’t get too many tourists around that particular area.

The trail was demanding at times (especially for us) but Kalum didn’t even break a sweat! We walked about two hours along dirt roads and winding goat trails before arriving at the Thrangu Tashi Yangste Monestary. The inside was elaborately painted and adorned in gold trim. A group of monks lined the walls each painstakingly restoring murals. Although, upon closer inspection of them working we noticed quite a few busily texting on their iphones?!

On the way back we stopped at a beautiful little cottage perched upon a hill. It had a fantastic view of the surrounding countryside. Farmers went about tending to their crops while carrying oversized woven baskets full of the day’s harvest. Small plots of intricately planted crops tiered the mountainside making it a visual delight.

The lady of the house made us feel at home and had prepared the most wonderful homemade meal for us (a cool part of the tour huh?). We sat outside at a little table and enjoyed the view while eating some excellent vegetarian curries and vegetable dishes accompanied with freshly brewed lemongrass tea and honey – Yum!!

After lunch we slowly made our way back down to our car. That whole day was the most wonderful experience and exactly what I had envisioned trekking through Nepali countryside would be like, it was no Mt Everest but at least we got a taste!

Later that night we went to a local restaurant called Thamel House. Throughout the night we were served all kinds of nice little local morsels. My favorite were the Momo’s (tender meatballs wrapped in fresh dough and steamed). My least favorite would have to be their rice wine. After swigging back a shot in one go (as per instruction by our waiter) my first thought as I frantically clutched my throat was…”Oh my god my throat is melting!!” Quickly followed by…”Uh oh, here comes dinner!!” After much restraint that ‘oh so wonderful’ feeling thankfully passed and I was left with that wonderful memory much to my chagrin.

On the way to the airport we went on our last sightsee to the 2nd Buddhist Wonder of the World – Boudhanath. We paid a small entry fee and then went to see this renowned destination for many Buddhists. The first thing we saw were the all-seeing giant eyes of the Buddha which were situated at the top of the Stupa. It is a massive circular structure and everyone walks clockwise around it chanting and praying. It was a nice spot and I’m glad we made the effort to see it before we went.

Initially we had booked 5 days to stay in Kathmandu but after hearing about another place called Pokhara we reduced that down to three days. To be honest, like most third world cities we were expecting Kathmandu to grow on us, but it didn’t. Really our highlight was trekking through the hills (outside of Kathmandu!). Perhaps we should have given it longer than 3 days but to be honest I don’t know if our lungs would permit us to head back any time soon (yes it is that bad).

Kathmandu is definitely not for everyone but it does hold a certain charm for many. All in all we are still really glad we went and would recommend it (at least once). It will surely make you grateful for everything you have right down to the shoes on your feet.

Machalle Gower’s Kathmandu, Nepal Photo Gallery

This travel diary has been written by Rob Gower, a traveler who works part-time for a bus hire company and enjoys traveling along roads less traveled!

If you’ve travelled somewhere off the beaten track, can write well and have good quality photos I encourage you to contact me and I’ll consider publishing your travel diary here including generous attribution and links back to your website as thanks for your contribution

GUEST ARTICLE: During one of our around the world trips we spent a weekend in Madrid. It was mid November at the time and fall was upon us. Rolling hills dotted the terrain and every now and again amongst the patchwork of mottled warm browns we saw patches of vibrant green crops below.

The Madrid airport is massive and the architecture inside really modern and interesting. By taxi it only took us 30 minutes and €35 to get to our hotel downtown Sercotel Suites Viena (great hotel by the way). There is also a train to downtown as well but we thought we’d grab a cab to take in more of the scenery.

We really enjoyed the drive through the city and being Friday it was a beehive of activity. We drove down Gran Via or otherwise known as The Spanish Broadway. The streets were lined with tall ornate buildings with beautiful architecture. Parking appeared to be a big problem, especially along the narrow back streets. But somehow even if the space seemed impossibly small they would squeeze themselves in (and there were numerous dented cars to prove it).

For dinner that night we walked to a real local’s restaurant recommended by our hotel concierge. The restaurants usually don’t open until about 8:30pm and by that time the temperature had really dropped (see your breath kind of cold). It was definitely scarf and mitts weather. For dinner we ordered their specialty – seafood paella. Accompanied by some local vinos tintos (red) and for dessert they served us a platter of dried fruits and sweet dessert wine – yum!

The next morning after breakfast we waited for the temperature to warm up. At the time it was only 6°C and pretty chilly. But with the sun shining and bright blue skies it didn’t take long. With a city map in hand and our journey planned for the day we began our first sightsee.

Our first stop was to a park just down the road from us called the Plaza de España. Tall trees with autumn amber leaves lined the park and in the middle was a beautiful marble fountain of Don Quixotte and his squire Sancho Plaza. A few vendors had stalls set up selling everything from food to trinkets. By this time a few other sightseers were out and about also admiring the tranquility of the place.

We kept on walking and came to the Jardines di Sabitini. A picturesque garden located just below the Palacio Real de Madrid (The Royal Palace of Madrid). That was a lovely area showcasing well-manicured hedges and leafy green trees. After a little stroll we continued on toward the Palacio Real and Almudena Cathedral.

Unfortunately there were long queues to get into the Palacio and Cathedral so we decided against going inside, but that was fine with us because the view from the outside was impressive. The Palacio is still the official residence to the King of Spain and is used primarily for official ceremonies. It’s a magnificent structure built using Baroque, Classicism architecture. Large stone pillars surround a massive courtyard and iron gates secure the premises.

Not far from there is one of their popular walking streets called Calle Mayor. There were quite few people milling about at first but that soon turned to thousands. On the way we went into a really cool market called the Mercardo de San Miguel. Inside were fabulous booths showcasing a number of delicious sweets and savories. Their displays were immaculate and looked enticing. Hundreds of people milled about happily tasting and drinking the local fare. It was lunchtime so we joined the crowd and grabbed a couple glasses of their best vino and some plates of paella (both were very good by the way).

After lunch our journey continued. The sidewalks got really thick when we reached one of the main squares in Madrid’s center called Plaza Puerta del Sol. Thousands of people filled the area.

Particular areas were much busier than others and those were the lottery shops. At that time of year there is a lottery called the Spanish Christmas lottery (Sorteo de Navidad), which is considered to be the biggest lottery worldwide. An entire ticket costs €200 but you can also but a tenth of a ticket for €20. We saw massive lineups of hopefuls patiently waiting for one of these tickets. They say 98% of Spanish people buy a ticket!!

We continued on our way and walked up the Paseo del Recoletos and then down the Paseo del Prado. That was a nice peaceful walk along concrete walking paths flanked by autumn colored trees. Near the end of the Paseo del Prado we stopped at the Madrid Botanical Garden (Real Jardin Botanico).

After paying our €2.50 entry fee we entered one of the most spectacular gardens we’ve ever seen. And because it was fall time that made it even more dazzling. The grove of plants and trees consisted of a myriad of vibrant colors, like fiery reds, burnt oranges and warm yellows. There were quaint pathways leading throughout and benches to sit and gaze. We could have easily spent all day there but since we were on limited time we had to venture on.

Next we went to one of Madrid’s most popular parks called Buen Retiro Park. It’s a grand park covering 1.4km2. We passed large grassy areas with people lounging about enjoying the day. Tall leafy trees covered the whole area and lined a network of dirt pathways. The serenity of the park was really nice and a great place to relax after the hustle and bustle of the city. On the way we happened upon an area that was home to a number of stray cats. Some locals took it upon themselves to give them food and set up makeshift shelters for them – how nice!

As we continued walking we started seeing more people so we knew that we must have been nearing one of the more popular areas of the park. Soon we came upon a magnificent monument made out of marble and bronze in honor of King Alfonso XII. In front of the monument was a large tranquil pond filled with happy tourists in small wooden boats.

Buskers were ever present showcasing their talents. Little kids especially liked the giant bubble making buskers and screamed in delight while trying to pop them. It was getting late in the day by this time and we were getting pretty exhausted from all the walking so we decided to start heading back.

On the way home we saw an enormous beautiful white building and found out it was Madrid’s City Hall. Even though we were tired we decided to have a quick peek. We were glad we did because not only was the inside spectacular but they offered a free platform viewing area located outside on the top floor. The view from up there was fantastic and gave us a good look at Madrid.

By the time we got back to our hotel we were spent so we relaxed for a few hours before we headed back out to explore the nightlife. We were eager to get back out because we heard that Madrid had just put up its Christmas lights and we were looking forward to the display.

The streets were jam packed with people all eager to get out and enjoy Saturday night. Walking was a bit of a chore amongst the throng but it made for interesting people watching. We even passed two people on rollerblades – ‘What The?!’ The light display was mesmerizing. A plethora of colorful streetlights were each creatively displayed along every street. And the main squares were also beautifully lit and each had giant Christmas trees all attractively decorated.

After another lovely dinner we leisurely strolled home taking in our spectacular surroundings one last time. What a day! What a weekend! We really enjoyed our time in Madrid, it’s a magnificent city filled with beautiful architecture, engaging people and rich in culture. Autumn is an excellent time to visit Madrid. The leaves, the crisp air and the Christmas lights combined to make this a special weekend. This city is a must do but next time we’ll try to spend more time to savour it.

Machalle Gower’s Autumn Weekend in Madrid, Spain Photo Gallery

This travel diary has been written by Machalle Gower, a traveler who works part-time for a bus hire company and enjoys traveling along roads less traveled!

If you’ve travelled somewhere off the beaten track, can write well and have good quality photos I encourage you to contact me and I’ll consider publishing your travel diary here including generous attribution and links back to your website as thanks for your contribution

GUEST ARTICLE: Ngapali Beach was our last stop on our Burma trip in March. It lies along the West Coast of Burma in the Rakhine State located just outside the town of Thandwe. It is one of Burma’s most well known beaches and is a popular tourist attraction.

It was mid morning when we touched down at the tiny Thandwe Airport. After collecting our luggage and going through immigration (not sure why there’s an immigration point) we and another couple were met by our hotel’s pickup. With bags in tow we walked a few meters down a dirt road to one of the coolest vehicle pickups we’ve been in. It was a big old chocolate brown vintage jalopy with two long vertical benches in the back.

A few minutes later we were happily cruising down a quiet lone dirt road. It was pretty bumpy but fun! The temperature was really warm and had that familiar smell of village burn-off permeating the air. We passed rustic looking villages nestled within the forest and numerous people on bikes. We only drove for about 5 minutes before we pulled in our nesting pad for the next 3 nights at the Amazing Ngapali Resort.

We were given a warm reception and were given two lovely seashell necklaces with our names engraved on the shells along with a couple fresh coconut drinks. Lucky for us a big tour group of 85 were just leaving so we pretty much had the whole resort to ourselves for the remainder of our stay, no complaints here!

The rooms were absolutely beautiful and fitted out nicely with all the creature comforts. We had a fantastic view of the grounds and ocean with a nice big deck to put our feet up and chill out. The whole place oozed relaxation, something we were looking for after being in full bore exploration mode since we arrived in Burma.

For lunch they set up a private table for us overlooking the ocean. The food was delicious! We had a local tomato sour soup, curried fish, salad and freshly baked breads. The day was spectacular with not a cloud in the sky and the sun beaming down on the azure warm waters of the Indian Ocean.

It was wonderful just to sit there amongst the tranquil atmosphere watching the trickle of locals venturing up and down the 3km pristine white beach. Soon the heat got to us so we got on our swimmers and took our first dip in the ocean. The water was a bit choppy and not the warmest we’ve felt but it still did the trick. It was also a really nice place to be while watching the sunset. That was always a special event watching the sky phase through an array of brilliant warm colors while the sun melted into the horizon.

For dinner we sat at a candlelit table poolside. The temperature was perfect and the stars above shone brilliantly against the dark velvet sky. Off in the distance we could see a smattering of little lights spread out all along the water. We found out they belonged to a throng of fishing boats that come out every night.

During another feast of palate pleasers two local singers played in the background. They were really good! We especially liked their traditional songs and could have easily sat there all night listening to them. Ko Thar strummed an excellent guitar and Ma Wah had a voice that reminded us of the lead singer for the Cranberries. They were both really nice people and for the remainder of our stay they set up camp beside our table, we loved it!

While we were there we were assigned a couple specific servers for meals (Ninnzi and Piu Piu). We got to know them over our short time there and found both of them to be really lovely and each had incredible life stories to share. We also found out that the Burmese don’t have last names or family names, something we found very interesting.

We also though it was nice to be able to talk freely about their political views and what their hopes were for Burma. Both leaned strongly in favor of the country’s well-known political advocate Aung San Su Kyii. I was so happy for them when I heard that not long after she had secured a seat in the Burmese Parliament.

One afternoon my husband Rob rented a bike (for just US$1 per hour) and went for a little explore, I opted out because of the heat. While he was on his journey he was flagged down by some villagers and invited to come and visit. He said they were very poor but so very nice and accommodating with what they had. They even gave him a small bag of dried squid as a present! They on the other hand wouldn’t accept anything from him; they and especially the kids just liked his company. A visit from a foreigner in the village was probably not so common.

For the rest of our stay we pretty much did a repeat of our previous activities – sun, sand, relaxation, eating! Rob ended up going on another bike ride and met up with the same villagers. This time they gratefully accepted the hat off his head and a donation to help out. In return they gave him a beautifully made seashell hair comb along with some great memories.

On the morning we left our new friends Ninnzi and Piu Piu were there to say goodbye. We are so fortunate to have met such wonderful people during our travels. We had a really great time at our resort and it’s definitely up there on our ‘Return To’ list. There were also a few tourist sights we missed that I’d still like to check out like the fishing village and the local town of Thandwe. We give this spot a big relaxing two thumbs up! As the popularity of Burma increases, Ngapali is likely to benefit from the increased tourism.

Machalle Gower’s Bagan, Burma (Myanmar) Photo Gallery

This travel diary has been written by Machalle Gower, a traveler who works part-time for a bus hire company and enjoys traveling along roads less traveled!

If you’ve travelled somewhere off the beaten track, can write well and have good quality photos I encourage you to contact me and I’ll consider publishing your travel diary here including generous attribution and links back to your website as thanks for your contribution

I attended the Wings Over Illawarra Airshow on the weekend and the clear highlight for me was the two aerobatic flight displays by the Royal Australian Air Force (RAAF) “Roulettes” flying their Pilatus PC-9/A aircraft.

The Roulettes are the Royal Australian Air Force’s elite formation aerobatic display team that showcase Air Force flying skills to the Australian public. Team members are flying instructors at the Air Force’s Central Flying School. The Roulettes currently fly Pilatus PC-9/A aircraft, however, the history of Air Force aerobatic teams dates back to well before the introduction of the PC-9/A.

The Roulettes aerobatic team comprises Qualified Flying Instructors (QFI) from Central Flying School (CFS), RAAF Base East Sale, Victoria. Sale is situated approximately 200km to the east of Melbourne in Gippsland. RAAF Base East Sale forms part of the Air Training Wing and hosts CFS, the School of Air Traffic Control, School of Air Navigation, No 32 Squadron and Technical and Logistics Management Squadron.

The Roulette pilots have varied backgrounds. Aircraft flown include the F/A-18 Hornets, Hercules, Caribou, Macchi 326 & 339, F-111, HS748, P-3C Orion and UH-1 gunship. Most individual members of the team have in excess of 3000 hours flying experience.

During Air shows the Roulettes usually fly at speeds up to 460km/h and, occasionally, 590km/h, depending on the manoeuvre. All aircraft may ‘pull’ up to 4.5 ‘G’ with Roulette 5 pulling as much as 6 G.

The Roulettes fly as close as 3 metres during manoeuvres. During the show the aircraft are manoeuvring whilst positioned approximately 3m apart. The pilots are able to fly so close because they know what and when each manoeuvre is coming up. In addition, Roulette Leader will call all manoeuvres on the radio and call for smoke on and off.

The smoke is generated by the pilots using a trigger on the control column hand-grip. This supplies an oil mixture to the right exhaust duct where it is vapourised and the smoke trail formed.

These are my favourites of the Roulettes photos I’ve taken, you can see more in the slideshow gallery at the bottom of this page:

Photos: Wings Over Illawarra Airshow

GUEST ARTICLE: After our first stop in Yangon we flew 500kms north to the small ancient city of Bagan located in the Mandalay region. Our little Mandalay Air airplane was stifling hot due to an unfortunately non-existent A/C system, and the small cramped quarters didn’t make for the best travelling conditions. To top it off we also had to make two stops along the way before arriving at our destination. Though I have to say I didn’t mind making the detours as it was interesting to get a look at the different countryside in each place. The alternative was a 6am direct flight from Yangon to Bagan which would have meant a 4am wakeup.

Being summer the terrain below looked terribly dry and was a patchwork of browns. We saw masses of dry riverbeds snaking throughout the landscape. I bet this place looks spectacular and lush during the rainy season.

When we arrived at Bagan’s tiny little airport (Nyaung U) we each had to pay a US$10 entrance fee towards the archaeological pagoda restoration. Yes you heard right we paid in US dollars, the dominant currency accepted at the airport and all bills must be crisp and unflawed or they won’t be accepted. Once there you can exchange for some local Kyat currency but generally most places accept both.

After grabbing our bags we hopped in a taxi and 5 minutes after traveling down a small dirt road we pulled into our hotel the Amazing Bagan Resort. It was a beautiful place, really peaceful and warmly lit. We had a welcoming reception and nice cold drinks waiting for us.

After a nice cool off we were shown to our lovely little room that only cost us US$52/night including breakfast (bonus!). That night we had dinner at our hotel and they put on a puppet show. I have to give props to the puppeteers, they do some pretty intricate moves with those digits.

The next morning our pre-booked guide (Thurah) and driver (Laht) picked us up for our first sightsee. Our guide cost us US$20 for the day and our car and driver US$42. First we drove to Old Bagan which was just a few minutes away down one of the prettiest roads I’ve ever seen. Leaves of gold flanked the sides of a quaint undulating road lined with tall willowy green trees that gracefully formed an arch over the road (that pic is definitely going on my wall).

The landscape had a hazy look to it with ancient red brick pagodas scattered amongst the honey colored countryside. We saw quite a few people riding bicycles, they seemed to be the most popular transport choice and they fit in well amongst the tranquil scenery. Horse and carriage was also common but it looked a bit bumpy and dusty for us.

It was really interesting watching the everyday goings on of the locals. As we were driving down one of the main streets we saw a large group of very hard working ladies doing roadwork. They were hauling large amounts of gravel by hand and raking it smooth. Then we saw a guy hand pouring hot tar with a giant ladle out of a bucket he was carrying – wow!

Our first stop was to see the Shwezigon Pagoda. It is a smaller version of the Golden Pagoda in Yangon. To get to the pagoda we had to walk through a little market selling all kinds of paraphernalia. The vendors weren’t at all aggressive which was nice and there were quite a few nice handicrafts to look at.

The Shwezigon Pagoda may be smaller in stature to the Golden Pagoda but it’s just as impressive. Its massive golden dome shape towered over the surrounding temples. It’s adornment of gold and jewels sparkled in the sun and worshippers surrounded its base.

Off to the side we saw a large group of men sitting in a circle emptying out pagoda donation boxes and counting masses of dollar and kyat bills. It looked like some kind of hardcore racketeering ring you might see on TV. I wonder what they do with all that dough?

Seeing these ornate spectacles is a harsh contrast to the vivid reality of how the locals live. The people are very poor and live a very meager existence like they have done so for many strained years under the government’s strict military rule. We can only hope that with the country’s recent developments in government (Aung San Syu Kii winning a seat) that things can start to change for the people.

For lunch we went to a restaurant along the Ayeyarwaddy River called The King Si Thu. The tables were set up outdoors with a magnificent view overlooking massive fields and locals commuting back and forth along the giant river. The temperature was still pretty hot but thankfully nothing like that of Yangon.

After lunch we went to see another pagoda but this one was located out in the countryside and made only out of beautiful russet red bricks. It wasn’t massive like Shwezigon but still striking. We were able to climb to the top of it and from there we got an awesome view of our surroundings. We couldn’t believe how many ancient temples and pagoda’s blanketed the area! There were so many of them that they reminded us of giant termite mounds.

It literally felt like we had taken a step back in time standing there. Thurah said that the pagodas were all built between the 11th and 13th centuries. Unfortunately in 1975 thousands of them were destroyed in a devastating earthquake and today “only” about 3,000 still stand.

Later that day for sunset we hired a longboat for US$25 for an hour’s journey up and down the Ayeyarwaddy River. The river was absolutely massive with deep dark waters. Our boat gently cut through its slow moving currents as we soaked up the exquisite tranquility of our surroundings. Every now and again we passed groups of locals and exchanged friendly waves and big smiles with everyone.

Along the banks we saw some really meager looking thatch roofed huts. Then to our surprise there was a mega-mansion looking totally out of place along the waters edge. Later we found out that this was the home of Aung San Oo brother of Aung San Suu Kyi. He is estranged from his sister and is rumored to have ties with the Burma’s junta (obviously). So yeah, unfortunately the complete opposite of his sister and grossly has no qualms about flashing his stolen wealth amongst his much less fortunate people.

Our boat ride ended just before sunset but we found the perfect spot to watch the sun set at a lovely little vacant pagoda situated along the riverbank. We’ve been to many countries and watched and marveled at many a sunset but this one was nothing short of spectacular. The light display across the sky was a myriad of rich colors, and the sun! I have never seen the sun turn into a brilliant florescent orange set against a deep dusky colored sky and then blink out after only a few minutes. We loved it!

The next morning we re-hired our driver Laht to take us to a place we’d heard was a must see called Mt. Popa. It was located about 50kms out of Bagan and took us about an hour and a half to get there. That was fine by us as we were eager to see more of the surrounding countryside.

Along the way Laht recommended we stop at a small farm on the side of the road to visit a family that specialized in harvesting palm sugar. The family kindly welcomed us in and showed us around their modest thatch roofed huts and then showed us their sugar making process.

The man of the house (who was the palm sugar collector) gave us a demo of how he retrieved the sugar. So off he went with two little black clay jars strung by twine to his waist. Before he began his ascent up a towering date palm tree he made a silent prayer and then without using any special equipment or safety lines he began to climb. Once at the top he retrieved some palm sugar sap from a traditional extractor that they had rigged up.

Our nerves were on edge as we witnessed this incredible feat. We couldn’t believe what we were seeing! What that man does everyday to sustain his family is absolutely mind boggling and extremely dangerous. We found out he climbs each of the forty trees situated around the property twice a day!

Once they’ve retrieved the sugar sap it’s handed over to the lady of the house who works with a homemade fire and 3 large metal woks going through her sugar making process. In the corner they had a little homemade liquor mechanism set up as well. It was clear and pretty potent stuff.

When we left little kids with faces done up in their traditional makeup called Thanaka were all giggling and curiously standing around waiting to get a look at us ‘foreigners.’ We gave great thanks to the family for taking the time out to show us their daily routines and parted leaving a small donation. Farmers there make a pittance for a living usually only earning about US$2/day. So for them anything is a help and we were more than happy to give.

Back on the road we saw more hard working farmers toiling hard in fields and ladies carrying giant bundles of wooden sticks on their heads. We passed overflowing public minibuses carrying passengers packed in like sardines and some riding the roof or hanging precariously off the back. We also we went through more road works where the workers had weather beaten faces and hard calloused hands toiling with vigor to get the job done. It was blatantly evident how hard the living conditions were.

As we neared our destination the terrain became more rugged and the landscape greener. As we entered the town of Popa we soon saw why this place was such a popular tourist destination. Mt. Popa was a remarkable sight. It was a single lone narrow mountain that towered above its surroundings at almost 5,000ft. A staircase wound its way up the side of it to a magnificent golden temple perched at the top. We couldn’t wait to climb up!

On the first part of the giant staircase we passed through a heap of food hawkers and little markets selling all kinds of handicrafts. Before climbing the main staircase leading up to the temple everyone had to remove their shoes out of respect. Luckily they had lockers to put them in for just a small donation.

Another reason Mt. Popa is popular is because it’s also inhabited by a mass of monkeys. The drive to see the top outweighed any gross thoughts we had of tramping through monkey doo but that wasn’t the case for all and some people refused to walk up. We couldn’t comprehend how someone could possibly come all that way and get detoured just because of that?!

We braced ourselves for the 700 stairs before us and slowly headed up. It wasn’t actually that hard going and the monkey biz wasn’t as bad as you’d think. It also helped that along the way there were a handful of people cleaning the steps with rags and water all the while asking for small donations. The monkeys were also pretty cool and had such unique little faces, some nice and some on the grumpy side.

Once at the top we got a fantastic panoramic view of the valley around us. The golden temple at the top was nice and had some great places to sit back and relax. We didn’t end up staying too long after accidentally picking the wrong seat next to a really grumpy monkey that showed us some pretty nasty canines. Yikes!!

By the time we got back down it was lunchtime so Laht took us to a really nice place called the Popa Resort that was located on an adjacent mountain. That was a beautiful spot and we had a lovely lunch on their veranda overlooking the vast landscape and Mt. Popa in the distance.

After lunch we headed back home for a much needed rest. Being our last night in Bagan we went for one last sightsee to a few more pagodas in the countryside. The ones we went to were massive and their ancient architecture impressive. Inside we walked down great cobblestone hallways decorated in ancient old paintings. Giant golden Buddha statues dominated rooms with softly lit candles and sweet smelling incense.

For sunset we went to a popular pagoda called Pyathada Paya where we joined about a hundred other tourists. We all climbed narrow stone staircases to the top of the pagoda. There were different levels to choose from and plenty of places to sit and watch the sunset.

We had to pinch ourselves as we took in our surreal surroundings. The sight before us was a picture of absolute beauty. Pagodas blanketed the smoky landscape for as far as the eye could see. The air was deliciously warm against our skin as we sat in the tranquil ambience that embraced us.

This was a magic moment and one I know we will reminisce upon for years to come. The feeling of sitting upon an ancient pagoda in the middle of Burma while watching one of the best sunsets in the world was priceless. We loved our trip to Bagan, the people, the sights, the culture – all were incredible and definitely worth the visit. This place is like no other and a must be seen to be believed! (I predict an explosion in tourism).

Machalle Gower’s Bagan, Burma (Myanmar) Photo Gallery

This travel diary has been written by Machalle Gower, a traveler who works part-time for a bus hire company and enjoys traveling along roads less traveled!

If you’ve travelled somewhere off the beaten track, can write well and have good quality photos I encourage you to contact me and I’ll consider publishing your travel diary here including generous attribution and links back to your website as thanks for your contribution