GUEST ARTICLE: Florence or Firenze as it’s known to the locals is a must visit destination for lovers of Renaissance art. Almost every corner teems with beautiful architecture, cathedrals, museums, history and… truckloads of tourists.

After leaving its main railway station, Firenze Santa Maria Novella, you’ll find Florence is extremely easy to explore on foot.

During peak season, you’ll notice visitors led by vocal guides or Lonely Planet/Rick Steves guidebooks ferrying around from morning to night ticking off the main attractions.

In amongst the rabble of Americans, Canadians and Australians floating around every corner, it’s a challenge in itself to hear a local accent.

I found Florence to be a magnet for tourists on an “Amazing Race” express tour of Europe. It attracts the type of visitor who proudly ‘does’ a city in 24 hours flat then hops on a night train, bus or plane to tick off Rome, Venice, Zurich, Munich, Prague, Paris and Madrid.

But to do Florence (and yourself) any justice you’ll need at least a couple of days. If you rush in and out of the most populated city in Tuscany you’ll probably leave disappointed.

The Galleria dell’ Accademia is generally abuzz with visitors looking for their fix of Michelangelo’s epic work, David.

You can compare the original piece with the inferior copies you’ll probably come across at Piazza della Signoria and Piazzale Michelangelo.

Depending on when you visit, you might find it hard to appreciate the monumental work in amongst the snap happy masses (no flash photography allowed). It is advisable to pre-purchase your ticket to avoid the epic queues.

The gallery houses a small-boutique collection with a number of Michelangelo’s works. I have heard that some visitors leave after about 30 minutes, meaning that for many, there isn’t that much to see apart from David.

Also, at 6.50 euro per adult, the gallery is quite expensive in comparison with other more larger and famous museums around Europe.

The Uffizi Gallery is just as famous for its epic collection of renaissance works as it is for its queues.

Beat the queues by pre-purchasing a ticket, albeit for a higher price. If you’re not a fan of renaissance art, spend your time and money elsewhere as you probably won’t get much out of it.

Refreshingly, entry into the Duomo – The Cathedral of Santa Maria del Fiore is free. The dome is a masterpiece, constructed as a single piece largely without any supporting structures.

The façade of the Duomo is an eye-catching combination of beautiful green, pink, and white marble panels.

The best gelato in town is arguably sold at Gelateria Santa Trinita near the famous Ponte Vecchio (bridge) .

Try the popular Buontalenti al mascarpone flavour, named after the man credited with inventing gelato, Bernardo Buontalenti.

You know Gelateria Santa Trinita gelato is authentic because they have their own laboratory where the gelato is hand made fresh daily, unlike many other vendors that serve gelato from a factory.

To find quality gelato, look out for vendors with the sign proclaiming: ‘gelato artigianale’, ‘produzione propria’ or ‘nostra produzione’.

Piazzale Michelangelo is the most popular vantage point for catching a panoramic view over Florence.

To get there, you’ll have to climb several hundred steep steps from Piazza Poggi, but the views are postcard perfect.

You won’t be alone gazing at the Duomo, Palazzo Vecchio and Ponte Vecchio, especially if you’re sitting on the steps around sunset.

Ostello Archi Rossi is without a doubt the best value quality hostel in Florence. Located 5 minutes from the main railway station and central to all the major sights, you couldn’t ask for more. Mixed dormitories start at about 20 euro per night.

The following services are included: in room Wi-Fi and internet computer, in-room shower/toilet facilities, bed linen, lockers, two walking tours, breakfast and dinner. Check their website for the availability of free dinner.

The hostel even offers an extensive menu ranging from pizzas, pastas, and omelettes cooked to order.

Hidden away from the hustle and bustle of the main streets, ì Tozzo di pane osteria offers a rustic vibe and a quiet garden courtyard. Authentic Tuscan and Italian inspired dishes are served without the nasty tourist price. A cover charge of 1.50 applies.

For starters, bruschetta topped with rich and flavoursome tomatoes and herbs was 4 euro, followed by a superb, fresh, melt-in-your-mouth potato gnocchi with a walnut and creamy cheese sauce for only 8 euro.

Washed down with a nice house wine, what more could you ask for after a day of full-on sightseeing?

This article has been written by Pranav Bhatt. He is a graduate of the Faculty of Economics and Business at Sydney University. He has an interest in world travel, cricket, politics, technology and the media.

If you’ve travelled somewhere off the beaten track, can write well and have good quality photos I encourage you to contact me and I’ll consider publishing your travel diary here including generous attribution and links back to your website as thanks for your contribution

GUEST ARTICLE: Cinque Terre in the Italian Riviera attracts hoards of tourists from around the world.

So what is the Cinque Terre? Cinque means five and Terre means lands. Bring them together and you have five, colourful, small but distinct fishing villages perched on sandstone cliffs stretching over about 10 kilometres of rugged coastline.

The Cinque Terre is protected as a National Park and is a UNESCO World Heritage Site. A Cinque Terre Pass is required to access the walking trail.

Various types of reasonably priced passes are available from one day to seven days with optional train or ferry inclusions. Passes are checked at various points along the track and can be bought from the ticket office in Riomaggiore.

A bus service run by the Parco Nazionale Delle Cinque Terre can takes pass holders to the villages from pre determined pick up points.

Alternatively, regular regional trains running from nearby La Spezia Centrale railway station can also take you into Riomaggiore in less than 10 minutes for less than 2 euros.

Train stations and a walking trail links the five villages – Riomaggiore, Manarola, Corniglia, Vernazza, and Montorosso. This means you can spend time in each village sampling the local produce and relaxing.

Check out the website of the national railway network – Tren Italia for up-to-date timetables and ticketing information

Despite its protected status, the walking track is poorly maintained in many sections. The local authorities just don’t seem to channel enough money from ticket sales into the preservation effort.

When I was there in May 2009, many of the dirt tracks were worn out; flimsy plastic fences were erected to keep walkers away from the edge of some sections of the cliff and water was leaking from some pipelines making the track muddy.

The villages formed on the foot of fertile coastal cliffs in a climate prone to weathering and erosion. The locals largely depend on the fruits of their toil on these inhospitable slopes for their livelihood.

Large tracts of planted terraces surround the villages, supplying locals with produce like lemons, olives and fruits.

The first village, Riomaggiore can feel overcrowded, as it’s the easiest starting point for many visitors and tour groups.

But, if you venture off the beaten track into the quiet lanes and narrow passages, you’ll experience the easy paced life of the locals away from the hustle and bustle of the main thoroughfare. I really wonder how they cope with the daily tourist intrusions.

The Lovers Walk Via Dell ‘Amore in Italian is an under whelming short, fenced footpath covered in wall-to-wall ‘I love you’ messages and padlocks.

Unfortunately, many tourists go over board and deface the area by carving their messages onto every surface they can get their hands on including plant foliage, boulders and the ceiling of the small tunnel.

It’s sad that once a world-class sight is discovered, some people always have to graffiti their name or slogan onto it.

You might get away with wearing a pair of sandals or thongs (‘flip flops’) up to this point, but if you want to continue the hike on foot, wear a comfortable pair of sturdy walking or hiking shoes or you’ll suffer.

Ironically, the first shops in many of the villages tended to sell “Scholls” brand foot and shoe pads and bandages for all the walkers with sore feet!

Manarola is an easy 30-minute stroll from Riomaggiore and is often packed with more Australian, Kiwi, American, Canadian and German accents than you can imagine, due to the flatness of the path.

You’d be hard pressed to find a real Italiano amongst the masses, which is a shame as each of the villages seem to have become miniature tourist enclaves with shops, restaurants and hotels designed and priced to cater for tourist traffic.

As you continue along the trail leaving Manarola, don’t forget to take the classic postcard shot of the village, the picture that probably brought you here in the first place.

The stretch of coastline towards Corniglia is stunning, but be prepared to climb 382 steps before you think about putting your feet up and tucking into a slice of foccacia washed down with some Limoncello.

Walking from Corniglia to Vernazza takes a bit longer. Allow about 90 minutes to wind through this part of the track. It is cut through the vegetation of the Mediterranean landscape and can be arduous in some places.

A small sign next to the Farmacia (Pharmacy) marks the path to Montorosso, but it can be hard to spot. The trek from Vernazza to Montorsosso becomes progressively harder, steeper, narrower (from 6 to 12 inches wide) and leafier. Uneven dirt tracks, steps and stones punctuate this part of the path.

On a busy day, I would imagine it would become a bit dangerous and tough to navigate if tourist hoards were shuffling through each way. But don’t let this put you off. People of all ages, shapes and sizes walk back and forth along the track every year.

On the other hand, don’t feel like you have to “Do the 5 Terre” in 5 hours! If you’re staying a few nights, catch the bus or train and resume where you left off.

I laughed at how many people I saw or overheard who looked like they were a contestant in The Amazing Race American reality TV show. Kitted out with their North Face pack, bandanna, and hiking boots they zoomed through at breakneck speed in order to get the 5 villages out of the way, and then “do” Rome in a day.

I took 8 hours to complete the walking trail, spending time in each village for a snack, rest, wandering and taking photos.

As you approach Montorosso, the final village, you’ll catch glimpses of the sandy beach, or on a hot day, be dreaming of a gelato mirage. If this doesn’t entice you onwards, at least by now you’ll have come to appreciate the harsh conditions the locals have had to contend with year round, making the slog in the sun worth every ounce of sweat.

I took the ferry from Montorosso back to Riomaggiore. The ticket was a bit steep at 8 euros, but worth it. It took about 35 minutes and gave me a new perspective on each village.

Ostello Tramonti is located in the tiny hill top village of Biassa, near La Spezia, just outside the Cinque Terre. To get there, catch the small bus to Biassa from Brin Square – do not walk! The road to Biassa is extremely steep, narrow, windy and dangerous for walkers.

With dorms starting at 18 euros per night, Ostello Tramonti is a good choice for budget travelers looking to relax in a real Italian village away from the hordes. Breakfast is extra, but worth it for the view over Biassa down to La Spezia. Lockers, internet access and linen is included.

Just note that the bus runs on a tight schedule and if you miss the last one you might need to look for a cab to get back to the hostel.

Dining options in Biassa are limited. Bar Pizzeria Aquila, a small family run restaurant down the road from the hostel is highly recommended. You can tuck into its authentic selection of pizzas and pasta at prices you won’t find in any of the five villages.

This article has been written by Pranav Bhatt. He is a graduate of the Faculty of Economics and Business at Sydney University. He has an interest in world travel, cricket, politics, technology and the media.

If you’ve travelled somewhere off the beaten track, can write well and have good quality photos I encourage you to contact me and I’ll consider publishing your travel diary here including generous attribution and links back to your website as thanks for your contribution

GUEST ARTICLE: If you’re looking for close proximity to the Rocky Mountains and a relaxed atmosphere, look no further than Boulder, Colorado aka ‘Boulderado’.

It takes about fifty minutes on the RTD bus service to reach Boulder, Colorado after the Amtrak California Zephyr pulls up at Denver Station.

The ride into Denver at night is magical as the “Mile High City” glows at night from a distance as the train steams towards the centre of town.

The Days Hotel Boulder is a comfortable, clean and well-appointed hotel for the budget conscious traveler. It is conveniently located near the Table Mesa Park n Ride bus stop, from which you’re just a short bus ride out of town. Single king rooms start from about US$55 and include free high speed WiFi, microwave, fridge and cable TV.

Eldora Ski Resort is a short bus ride away from Boulder and worth a visit if you want to hit the slopes in Colorado.

Pearl St Mall has a good mix of shops, cafes and restaurants to keep you busy for at least one afternoon.

If you have a sweet tooth, head on down to the Cheesecake Factory and dig into one of their many cheesecake specialties, you won’t be disappointed. The triple chocolate is not to be missed!

Getting to Denver International Airport couldn’t be easier aboard the RTD SkyRide bus service ($12 adult) from the Table Mesa Park n Ride.

This article has been written by Pranav Bhatt. He is a graduate of the Faculty of Economics and Business at Sydney University. He has an interest in world travel, cricket, politics, technology and the media.

If you’ve travelled somewhere off the beaten track, can write well and have good quality photos I encourage you to contact me and I’ll consider publishing your travel diary here including generous attribution and links back to your website as thanks for your contribution

Each year I return to the new summer exhibition at the Australian Museum and marvel at the skill of the photographers whose work is displayed in the Wildlife Photographer of the Year photography exhibition.

In 2003 I lived for a year in the UK and saw that years Wildlife Photographer exhibition at London’s Natural History Museum.

That was the year I first became really interested in photography, particularly of wildlife and natural landscapes and I think my photography has improved a lot since then.

From vivid, colourful landscapes to intimate portraits of animal behaviour, the exhibition offers an extraordinary insight into the beauty and diversity of the natural world.

Enjoy captivating wildlife images from the world’s largest and most prestigious photography competition when this popular exhibition returns each year to the Australian Museum during Summer.

Wildlife Photographer of the Year is owned by the Natural History Museum and BBC Wildlife Magazine.

Now in its 45th year, this exhibition showcases incredible stories and evocative images which capture the diversity and wonder of the natural world such as the 3 photos shown below: 46. Ethiopian mountain king, Joe McDonald (USA), 56. Eyes in the oasis, Lee Slabber (South Africa) and 51. Puffin in the snow, Jan Vermeer (The Netherlands).

The 2009 winner of Wildlife Photographer of the Year “The storybook wolf” by José Luis Rodríguez (Spain) was controversially disqualified and stripped of his status as the judges suspected the wolf in the photo was tame and trained to create the photo.

The competition rules clearly state that photographs of animal models may not be entered into the competition and that images will be disqualified if they are entered in breach of this rule.

Wildlife Photographer of the Year is the world’s most prestigious photography competition of its kind. Any transgression of the competition rules is taken very seriously and if entries are suspected of breaching the rules they are disqualified. José Luis Rodríguez’s image will be removed from the exhibition and tour.

Mr Rodriguez strongly denies that the wolf in the image is a model wolf.

Wildlife, photography and travel enthusiasts of all ages will enjoy the stunning display which is FREE with general Museum entry.

Starts: 24 December 2009
Ends: 26 April 2010

Where: Level 2, Australian Museum, 6 College Street (opposite Hyde Park), Sydney
Cost: Free with Museum entry ticket

If you can’t go there you can view the Wildlife Photographer of the Year online at the Natural History Museum website although the photos are only done true justice when seen as large prints in the exhibition

2008 Competition

An image of a jewel-like leaf drop glistening in the far north Queensland sun has earned Australian photographer, Darran Leal, a highly commended in the prestigious 2008 Wildlife Photographer of the Year competition.

• The image, ‘Leaf drop,’ is one of 83 chosen from a record 32,351 entries and is included in the montage below (top left) with 3 other images from the exhibition
• Deadlock, David Maitland, United Kingdom (top right)
• Daddy long legs, Jordi Chias, Spain (bottom left)
• Troublemaker, Stefano Unterthiner, Italy (bottom right)

credit: 2008 Wildlife Photographer of the Year – Australian Museum

2007 Competition

2007 Highlights included the winning image by UK photographer Ben Osborne “Elephant Creation” which features a large bull elephant kicking and spraying mud in a waterhole. This reminded me of an underwater photo on the December 2004 National Geographic website of an Elephant swimming in the Okavango Delta.

Rajan, the 60-year-old Asian elephant in Jeff’s winning picture, was rescued from the banned Andaman Islands logging trade. Today he takes daily swims in the ocean with his handler and Jeff was privileged to join them in the water for a dip.

When asked about his experience Jeff said: “Swimming under water with such a massive land animal was one of those unforgettable life experiences“

GUEST ARTICLE: Don’t be fooled, there’s so much more to Moab, Utah than its main street called Main Street. Untouched National Parks abound. Thousands of natural sandstone arches. The force of the Colorado River. Challenging bike tracks. All this and more is on your doorstep from Moab.

If you’re on the Amtrak California Zephyr and want to visit Moab, a little bit of pre-planning is advisable. Otherwise you might find yourself walking for 52 miles down the highway from the isolated Green River Amtrak station.

Pre-booked shuttle services such as Coyote Shuttle can help. Just be aware that some companies are reluctant to do pick ups from Green River because of the unreliability of Amtrak trains.

I was fortunate because my train was exactly on time and I’d pre-arranged a pick up with Coyote Shuttle and phoned them while I was on the train to re-assure them that I’d turn up on time.

Moab Main Street is filled wall to wall with shops, hotels, motels and adventure outfitters so finding a bed and bike rental should be no problem unless you arrive during peak season or the annual Moab Jeep Safari.

Starting at $US 39 for a single queen room, the Bowen Motel offers superb budget friendly accommodation on Main Street, within walking distance of cafes, restaurants, tour companies and the CityMarket supermarket.

Rooms are large and feature a large bed, cable TV, free WiFi, clean bathroom, and breakfast. There is a microwave and fridge at reception and the front desk staff are helpful.

The Adventure Inn is also on Main Street. Single queen rooms start from about $US 55. The owners were very friendly and helpful. The rooms are newer, compact and clean with cable TV and free WiFi, but breakfast is inadequate. Laundry facilities are provided.

Arches National Park and Canyonlands National Park rank highly on the must-see list for visitors to this part of Utah.

There are plenty of tour companies (‘outfitters’) to choose from if you don’t have a car or just want to sit back and listen to an expert. The Moab Adventure Center provides a number of tours ranging from four-wheel mayhem on Hummer safaris to rafting.

The guided hike through the maze-like Fiery Furnace in Arches is excellent value at $US 77 (adult). It is one of the quieter and more mysterious areas of the park because visitor numbers are limited to preserve its unique natural beauty.

Tag-A-Long Expeditions and Navtec hold permits to enter Canyonlands National Park. Other outfitters advertise tours that include ‘Canyonlands’ but they can only drive around the general region known as Canyonlands.

Tag-a-Long’s Jet Boat / 4WD tour of the Canyonlands National Park (US $135 adult) offers the best of both worlds, providing visitors the chance to experience rugged backcountry and stunning vistas via windy dirt trails, followed by an afternoon navigating the Colorado River with time for a riverside lunch in between.

There are heaps of biking trails in and around Moab to suit most skill levels. Plenty of shops rent bikes too. Rim Cyclery offers reasonable prices and friendly service.

Many of the trails are rugged and remote. To navigate them safely, you’ll need to draw upon skills and experience you won’t have from just riding on city streets. So don’t just hop on and hope for the best.

The trail along Kane Creek is recommended for people with limited experience, but it’s wise to know how to use a puncture repair kit to patch any holes if you get stranded. If you look carefully, you’ll spot some American Indian petroglyphs on the way.

The Moab Brewery “Utah’s only microbrewery and restaurant” offers a genuine pub atmosphere and is a great place to unwind after a day of outdoor adventure.

The menu ranges from Italian, Mexican to classic burger and fries pub fare. Try some of their microbrewery varieties such as the Dead Horse Amber Ale and the Derailleur Red Ale.

Pasta Jay’s is one of the most packed restaurants on Main Street and it’s easy to see why – huge servings of American-Italian fare at decent prices.

Zax Restaurant is just off Main Street and is a top choice for a fresh burger, local beer and crispy hot chips for under US $20.

The Moab Museum provides a hands-on history of the town showcasing dinosaur bones, mineral deposits and the Hollywood films that have been shot in the area including Thelma and Louise and Mission Impossible II.

This article has been written by Pranav Bhatt. He is a graduate of the Faculty of Economics and Business at Sydney University. He has an interest in world travel, cricket, politics, technology and the media.

If you’ve travelled somewhere off the beaten track, can write well and have good quality photos I encourage you to contact me and I’ll consider publishing your travel diary here including generous attribution and links back to your website as thanks for your contribution

GUEST ARTICLE: Surrounded by a ring of big and small snow capped mountains, Salt Lake City, Utah is a ski lover’s wonderland.

Disembarking the Amtrak California Zephyr at Salt Lake City railway station in the early hours of the morning isn’t for the faint hearted. Call a taxi company like Yellow Cab (801) 521-2100 or City Cab Co (801) 363-5550 or you’ll be left stranded in a desolate part of town next to the very shady looking Pioneer Park.

Entering the 800 South Guest House, amazingly enough located on 800 South (‘street’) is also an interesting proposition during the early hours of the morning.

800 South Guest House is a self-check in hostel with a cheerful yellow and blue exterior. Have the entry code handy from your internet booking to open the side door and a torch if the lights are off so you don’t have to stumble to the self check-in computer like I did.

Starting at about US $20 for a shared dormitory, the hostel provides free secure WiFi, TV, kitchen and laundry facilities. It’s cheapest to book directly online through the official secure website.

To stock up on the basics you can’t go wrong at the Walmart SuperCenter just a few TRAX stops away. If you can’t find what you want in Walmart, whether it’s a “wholesome” tube of cookie dough or “meal size maple pancakes” and sausage griddlecake, you just aren’t looking hard enough.

To hit the ski slopes, take a UTA ski bus up to Snowbird or Alta Ski Resort to experience the powder that made Salt Lake City home to the 2002 Winter Olympics. The champagne snow crumbles in your hand at the slightest touch.

Snowbird is a more commericalised, larger resort with more eateries and shops. Alta is more of a smaller, simpler family run operation. But it’s really the types of runs on offer that counts.

If you catch the TRAX light rail into town for sight seeing, be warned. There’s not too much to see by way of major tourist attractions, unless you’re interested in religious monuments and average museums.

A ring of tall and short snow capped mountains provide a sparkling backdrop to what is other wise a fairly lifeless city.

In early 2009, the city center was punctuated by construction works designed to breathe life and prosperity into the centre, its plain architecture and shady streets on its fringes.

There are some chain restaurants like Romano’s Macaroni Grill where you can get a large cheesy mushroom ravioli and a Budweiser served with a complimentary warm bread roll and oil for about $US15.

For more information about skiing and the state parks around Salt Lake City, read this other article Salt Lake City, Utah: Mormons near Mountains

This article has been written by Pranav Bhatt. He is a graduate of the Faculty of Economics and Business at Sydney University. He has an interest in world travel, cricket, politics, technology and the media.

If you’ve travelled somewhere off the beaten track, can write well and have good quality photos I encourage you to contact me and I’ll consider publishing your travel diary here including generous attribution and links back to your website as thanks for your contribution